So the battens are fit; tomorrow I’ll install the legs, surface the top and finish up the piece. Then I set the sliding bevel to the exact angle of the dovetails. P.S.
Angles range from 7° to 14°.
It also makes it possible to cut different dovetail angles with the same jig. With MDF inserts you get tear-out free cuts every time. Then, I went down the length with the same plane, set finer. Have you tried this method?
---- Rather than obsess over it, I moved on to another facet of the build and let the dovetail problem simmer. The thickness of the pins at the narrowest point has to be at least the thickness of your saw blade. What do you think? Note: When you batch out dovetails on multiple boards with the same width, at which this method really excels, you only have to make the layout on one board. Hey Brendan, why didn’t you use a tapered sliding dovetail? The large fence ensures the top is truly flat – not cupped – when I rout the joinery, so the battens, when installed, will preserve this flatness. Later this week I’ll post the full build of this project, here’s a post on what I did today. I used the middle of the slot to check the depth, and test the setting to confirm the depth.
The track only has to be on one side of the blade. The angle for the tails is achieved by tilting the blade and the angle for the pins by adjusting the miter gauge. But it still needs a stop-block to make the cuts repeatable.
I also mark my waste. I start by ripping 15mm (½”) birch plywood to a 20cm (8”) strip and two 5cm (2”) strips. Before I can put o, Front Legs After I have repeated the process for all the cuts on the tail boards, I chop out the remaining waste between tails with a chisel and a mallet. New posts will not be retrieved.
Make sure you do NOT touch the bit height setting that that when you cut the tails you can ensure a good fit.
Looking god so far.
Of course the way a dovetail bit cuts means that that particular groove would be slightly wider on that edge. So, I snuck up on the correct fit with a handplane, taking a single shaving’s worth out of the middle of both battens’ sides. This leaves almost no waste in between the tails. Just made this jig in Sydney Australia. For marking the pins I like to use a marking knife. Before I make the cut I slide my stop-block in place and lock it. My process is a bit different – I opted to go the power-tool route, though I took a few notes from Chris and incorporated some of the sensitivities of handwork to sweeten the fit and precision.
It is flush with the side that gets connected to the miter gauge and sticks out in the front. So when faced with a daunting amount of dovetails, furnituremaker Gregory Paolini turns to his tablesaw. This works great for case work because you can set the fence far away from the bit to make grooves in the center of a side like in this case.
I would have bored the battens before assembly on a drill press for accuracy but there are many ways to bore them after assembly. If you want to chisel less on the tails, you can buy a custom blade with the correct dovetails angle at the top of the teeth.
Saves the visitors preferences selected in the Cookie Box of Borlabs Cookie. After today’s experience, I can say that this is an accurate and handy way to execute this joint in your shop. Copyright text 2019 by The Renaissance Woodworker. Paolini uses a standard rip blade in combination with two … Next came the fun (or messy and loud) part – wasting out the meat between the two walls.
I had to set up again for the cross cut and making sure of solid downward pressure was able to fix the depth of the groove in that one board.
The height of the track in the jig should be higher than the maximum cut height of your table saw. Hide Cookie Information. One of the slabs had a litt, This error message is only visible to WordPress admins, https://policies.google.com/privacy?hl=en, https://www.facebook.com/privacy/explanation, https://policies.google.com/privacy?hl=en&gl=en, https://wiki.osmfoundation.org/wiki/Privacy_Policy. My battens are roughly 5-1/2″ wide, but this is just an estimate – in practice, the battens’ width will be dictated by the slots, so I’m going cut the slots, then fit the battens to them. Some of them are essential, while others help us to improve this website and your experience. So first you need to run the dovetail grooves. Using a straight edge and feeler gauges I determined that the top is flat to within .002 so that is not the problem. Now I want to hit my scribe line dead on. The dovetail slot is 5/8″ deep and 5-1/4″ wide. Chisel and sharpening for Kumiko Determine their width, using your best judgment, based on the... Know the angle of your bit. My router table hangs off my table saw. Now I’m going to turn up the music, turn off the dust collector and galoot out for a bit. An alumnus of The Krenov School (formerly College of the Redwoods) his focus in woodworking is on the intersections of good design, fine wood and practiced technique. I ofte, Here it is in all its beauty I am aiming for a fit that I can press into place without a mallet but one that is very tight right at the front to seal up any gaps on that show face. How did it turn out?
Here they have been milled square and flat on all four sides, but I’ve not yet tapered them. Let me know in the comments below! So first you need to run the dovetail grooves. Therefore I needed 40cm (16”) on each side plus an additional 7cm (2¾”) in order to accommodate for the stop-block.
Now the jig is ready to be attached to the miter gauge. The bow was so slight that I could flatten the board with very little downward pressure and the way the case is constructed would pull everything in line so I wasn’t worried about that. … Oh good; I’m not the only one who has thought that ironwood/ipe would make a good plane body. – Simple Woodworking Projects, Christopher Schwarz’s “Anarchist Design Book. Get on the fast track to the woodworking content you really like by joining my list and telling me what you most want to see in video, text, song, poetry, and performance art. With two holes for M6 star knobs, you can mount it to the t-track. I got there pretty quickly, and establishing the correct bevel with the table saw made this even easier.
... With sliding dovetails you want the fit a little looser or you will kill yourself trying to get them seated properly especially once the glue has swollen the joint. Here you can see the back of the shelf as it enters the front of the case and the slight gap created by tapering the tail.
I left my tabletop and battens long; I’m going to trim them to final width with a track saw after assembly. Make sure it is perfectly perpendicular and don’t place a screw in the spot where the blade is gonna cut.
The stop block ensures perfect repeatability of the cuts on multiple boards. So I started on my test piece sneaking up on the fit when I realized that my tail was about 1/8″ longer than the pin groove and I would have a gap at the shoulder.
My first thought was that the router table wasn’t flat and maybe the top had sagged. This makes sure the position of the cuts for the other boards will be exactly the same. If you are working with a tabletop that is at its final width, consider scribing the depth and wall of the slot with a knife or marking gauge, and back up the bit.
It doesn’t work and you end up with a cut in the wrong direction. Let’s talk about the process and then I can explain where I was having problems. It’s a thorough survey of most of what you can do with these tools. Your donations will go directly to support the show for things like hosting, field trips, and video equipment, All fields with “. There are 2″ between the router base’s flat side and the bit’s centerpoint, and I’m using a 1/2″ straight bit – so I drew two parallel lines 9″ apart, which left me with a roughly 5-1/2″ sliding dovetail. You can guess how I found out. A fast method with a hand-cut dovetail look sliding bevel* narrow chisel* to get into the pinholes marking knife flat-top grind table saw blade* (optional) dovetail marker (optional, you can use the sliding bevel) If you do have a board that isn’t exactly flat you can either make sure it is flat or route the groove using a hand held router that will track the curves like a shorter hand plane would. I used my two go-to handplanes, the Lie-Nielsen No. Here are the two 13-1/2″-wide white oak boards I’m using for the top of the staked worktable. But when you have to cut a lot of dovetails the same size, like multiple drawers, hand-cutting gets tedious, time consuming and repetitive. My groove runs 14.5″ up from the bottom of the side so using the table saw fence makes this job easy. RWW 165 From Boat Anchor Junk to Fore Plane, Renaissance Woodworker Quickies: Adjusting a Mortise. This week I’m building a new kitchen table, in between setting into my new job and figuring out where to buy lumber (and food, clothing, etc.). I used my jack plane to sneak up on the fit, and put a slight hollow in the middle of the batten side to make it easy to bring home. When batching out, I lock the stop block and make every cut for the different boards and then move to the next setting. In the next few months, I’ve got a lot of furniture to make; Josselyn (my partner) and I just moved to Cincinnati from Maine. With a thin-kerf blade you can go super narrow. That slight variation however had essentially shortened the depth of the pin groove in a few places. However, this does not impact our recommendations. Provided the router base is wide enough, this is pretty straightforward. The jig has to be attached to the miter gauge and set to 90°. The other strip gets attached to the bottom of the jig. At top, is the slot routed with a straight bit. This is not possible later on with the miter gauge shifted in the other direction because you would end up cutting into your pin. The dovetail slot is 5/8″ deep and 5-1/4″ wide. With a second cut right next to each first cut I remove a little bit of waste. I had already started the casework before the feet but took a detour from it to build the feet because my set up for the sliding dovetail that secures the center shelf was being fussy. I like this arrangement because I can use the table saw fence from time to time as a fence for the router. I enjoy using hand tools, but there are more demanding or tedious tasks such as long rips, surfacing wide boards, repetitive drilling tasks or the like that I’ll happily do with power tools. Cookie Details The slots are finished, so it’s time to fit the battens. Proportions are primarily a matter of taste, but here are a few practical considerations: Don’t make the narrowest sections too thin and weak. No doubt, hand-cutting dovetails is a super cool skill to have. By flipping it is not necessary to tilt the saw blade in the other direction. Then you set up a sacrificial fence and bury the bit into it exposing only the tiniest piece of the bit. Using a 12″ wide board makes for plenty of registration against the fence, but you must make sure that this board is flat or risk ending up with a similar problem that I had with the groove. It’s a little easier as you don’t need to sneak up on the fit or relieve the middle to ease assembly. This could have been done the same way Chris does in his book, with a chisel and router plane (which I may prefer, as the mess and noise are significantly diminished), but I wanted to try it out with power tools. If you are particularly fond of routers, or are looking to get into them, we’ve got a few good resources that will get you there.
In this case I had the opposite with an every so slightly flared groove. -----
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First, even though I was very, very careful in routing the slots, there is a chance they aren’t perfectly parallel across the width.
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