Indian design has come a long way from using motifs of elephants and peacocks to retain its Indian spirit.

The women usually use accessories that are made of gold and silver. “I keep myself in mind constantly during the design process because it helps me believe in the things I create,” he says. Through this lesser-known India, we discover peculiar weaves, zero-wastage techniques and cruelty-free fabrics….

“For the inner dress, I’ve used cotton and silk and created a very light fabric. Santhal tribe has limited themselves to their zone unaware of the development, this is because of the financial drawback for higher studies leading to the lack of information and understanding suffering from poverty. Generally, they get married in their community or else they may be punished to get isolated from them, till an extent marriage within the same community has helped the ethnic tribe to survive till today. With 645 tribes, and as many compelling narratives, we have only just managed to scratch the surface. Music, dance and instruments are entirely distinctive and popular as one of the largest and ancient tribes belonging to India. These clothes were designed especially for the protection from harsh climate in deserts and to distinguish them from others. They offer their prayer to their lord through music and a dancing during the season of spring and in the autumn, to the religious tree “Sal tree”. They are mostly found in the states of West Bengal, Bihar, Orissa, Jharkhand and Assam. The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, The clothing of Jharkhand draws its inspiration from the tribes that belong to the state and have been living there for generations. The attire is accessorized with jewelry to make it more vibrant during the religious or social festivals and events.

The Santhal tribes are still found in few regions of eastern India they are West Bengal, Orissa and Jharkhand.

The ornaments are beautiful and eye-catching and the women use artistic and colorful costumes in order to bring out the traditional grace of the attire.

Through her initiative Heart to Haat, she has been upcycling discarded material from her previous lines to create patchwork accessories, rugs and clothing. Panchi and Parhan is a traditional attire of the women of Jharkhand. Although closely resembling the bakhu from afar, I have constructed it from a single rectangular block of fabric which forms an over-garment,” elaborates Lama.

“I found many similarities between Kaleekal and the tribe…whether it is the functional and unisex nature of the clothing or the use of colour — often limited to only white, black and red.”, Since the Todas are known to wrap shawls around their bodies, Alexander’s design involved multiple shawls instead of running fabric. Which is why there were no traces of amped-up glamour, but rather a suave and confident look — try to imagine Rumi set to Ray Charles.

With the launch of different textiles and fabrics such as the Tussar, Anjana and Swarnarekha silks, which are now prominent names in the fashion industry, have helped develop the traditional wear to match the evolving trends of fashion. “Every piece is unisex, supporting gender fluidity as opposed to gender binary,” he adds.

Priyanka Lama’s work is deeply rooted in the Japanese wabi-sabi philosophy where “designs are simple, unpretentious, and fashioned out of natural materials”. The villages of the Santhals are provided with schools, hospitals and solar systems also providing fund every year to make development in their living such as building their houses, sanitation and educating them about proper health in free health checkups and informing them about their rights, different scope of living our central government have provided them with seats in schedule tribe for their better development. They belong to the Pre -Aryan period and were the great fighters during the British regime in India. A step forward, in our Indian tribal tour takes us to Santhal tribe.

Some of the most prominent tribes of this region are Santhal Pargana, which dominates the way, the women dress in this region. According to local folklore, they are believed to live in a metaphysical state, untouched and unaffected by modernity.

“Their strong affinity towards cattle and nature pushed us to create something very rustic, very natural. Bands of intricate designs adorn most garments. The women also love wearing different perfumes made out of natural leaves and flowers as an important part of their accessory while dressing up for any occasion.

“For something to be beautiful, it doesn’t have to be pretty,” believes Kochi-based designer Alan Alexander.

The lower garment being panchi and upper, parhan.

Restricting itself to pastels, dirty linens, greys and blacks, his label Antar-Agni feeds on the rawness of Indian textiles. © Verve Magazine, 2020.

“The side slits were designed to be waist-high for easy movement. Youngisthan.in is a youth media company that has dedicated itself as a fun & developmental platform for the young population of India. These sarees have the traditional imprints of the tribes and are made of basic cotton fabric.The traditional costumes of the tribal women are the Panchi, a rectangular piece of cloth about 3 metres in length, which is tucked at the waist, and the Parhan, the upper garment. The ethnic tribal are unique though reduced in a population they still owe their own culture and lifestyle.

Every element was woven by hand without the use of dyes or chemicals. “As a label we have mastered the ‘complex minimal’ aesthetic where we combine Indian techniques in the most non-traditional ways,” says Ahuja.



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